Flowering crab tree problem?

I have a mature flowering crab tree that over the last few years has been losing its leaves mid-summer. We love the shade it brings our back yard and it's the only mature tree we have there. What's wrong with it? It starts out normal with leaves and buds that eventually turn pink. The blossoms fall off after a couple of weeks which I think is normal. The leaves are fine till about July then they dry up and fall off like the other trees do in the Fall. Is there something I can spray on it to help the leaves stay on longer. This has only been happening over the last 3-4 years. Help! I don't want to have to cut it down.

Flowering crab tree problem?
It really sounds typical of Apple Scab. That is a fungal leaf spot that affects Apples, Crabapples, Hawthorns and other related trees. Apple scab is to those trees, as black spot is to roses. Apples and roses belong to the same family of plants Rosaceae, so thus have similar problems.



Crabapple (Malus) has been in cultivation for years. Some cultivars are extremely suceptible to apple scab, others (newer) ones are much more resistant.



The solution lies in work and dedication. Apple scab is carried in the wind, so you'll never be completely free of it. In the spring and fall, I would recommend spraying the tree with a Lime-Sulpher spray (dormant), before the buds break and after the leaves fall, this will help to kill overwintering fungal spores. In the growing season, be sure to apply a general purpose fertilizer (something that all the numbers on the package are similar, 13-13-13, 10-12-10 etc). After bloom, you'll need to thin the tree out as well. Why? It improves air circulation, so that the disease doesn't 'settle' so well. Cut out crossing branches, whimpy branches etc. About 20%. Generally do this every 3-5 years... for now, do it every other for 6 years, to open it up. Dappled light should penetrate the tree's canopy.



In the short term I might also recomend a chemical control called Daconil (Ortho) or Fungonil (Bonide). Apply it once, when the leaves are at 50-70% thier full size. If you see the disease begin (start looking at the beginning of June), then apply it bi-weekly through the season. Eventually you will not need this spray as often.



ALWAYS FOLLOW THE DIRECTIONS ON ANY GARDEN PRODUCT YOU BUY.



There is no reason a landscape plant cannot last indefinately in your landscape, provided it recieves the appropriate care.

There are historical gardens in Europe that date to the 1700's or older. A few years more than 30...



Good luck-

I hope that this helps
Reply:Your problem may be as simple as water. With the weather patterns all over the place in the last few years you may be getting it hotter with less natural rainfall. Trees loose their leaves as a survival tool. If it gets too dry they just throw them because they can't support them.



This summer give it a good soaking once a week. Leave the hose on the ground on the edge of the tree growth (this is called the drip line), this is where the trees smaller feeder roots are. Turn the hose on and water for about 1/2 hour on half full.



You could also give it a tonic such as Seasol (seed weed extract, available at nurseries, could be under different names in your country), this promotes plant health %26amp; root growth. If it is ailing this may be a great health boost without the risk of shock or burn that may be caused by ordinary fertilizers.
Reply:I had something like that happened. I cured my problem with a Divorce! Never have had it again.
Reply:The key word here might very well be Mature. It is unfortunate that we think that trees live forever. Fact is that even in their own natural environment shrubs and trees live a long but definitive life. Like humans they show the signs of decay and disease before they perish.

As much as you do not wish to part with the tree imagine the impact it can make on your garden. A diseased tree will only attract insects and fungi which will spread to other plants and trees. The sprays, of which there are many, will not preclude the tree's future.

Most of the Ornamental Trees have a life of a max of 30 years. Does not matter how you try they are done by 25-30 years. It is the way of nature. For example, the first of the trees to spring-up after a forest fire are conifers and dogwoods. The heat releases the seeds to grow. In a backyard the tree is not in a natural environment and tends to die a bit quicker.

Before you eliminate the tree plan ahead on it's replacement. I used a Japanese Snowball Tree to replace the CrabApple Trees on my campus. A slow growing but great and hardy planting.
Reply:I don't know where you live, but I live in SE Michigan and my tree has been doing the same thing!!! I can't get any explaination, but it even bloomed last December in the middle of a warm spell! I wish I knew what was up, but just wanted to say that you are not alone.
Reply:Your tree might be suffering from a fungal disease known as apple scab. It might be too late to do anything about it now for the current year, but you can rake up all fallen leaves this autumn and spray next season with lime-sulfur prior to leaf break. As the new growth emerges, spray with Captan or benomyl. You can still try to spracy with a fungicide this year and it may resolve the issue.